Skin and Nail Services
The Structure and Growth of Nails
Notes on Theory : Cristina Lazalde
It is important to study the structure of the nail as well as the growth stages
of the nail as you the cosmetologist will often be sought out for beauty advice.
However making the decision, as to whether you can help the client with their
beauty situation is up to you and your professional decision making. Based off
your knowledge of basic spa and beauty diseases. In plane simple words you are
not a doctor, you cannot write a prescription for any nail related issues! As silly
as it sounds you'll be surprised at the truth, that a vast majority of nail clients
already have a nail related disease, despite the sight of appearance at first glance.
- Understanding the structure and nail growth patterns allows you to
professionally groom, strengthen and improve the health of ,all executed
flawlessly and beautifully.
" The cosmetologist should be able to tell their eponychium
from their hyponychium.Understanding the big picture of the
natural nail will prepare you for themore advanced world of
nails tomorrow! So don't get frustrated and expect to learn
acrylics right away when the basics are a must. "
Here are a couple questions to think about as we go along..
Do you know where you'r cuticle is ?
Is the cuticle living or dead skin ?
Where is the plate and nail bed located in the natural nail ?
The Natural Nail
A Natural nail, also known as an Onyx(AHN-nyx), is the hard protective platesurface composed mainly of keratin, the same fibrous protein found in the skin
and hair in the skin and in hair.
- The keratin in natural nails is harder than that of keratin found in the skin or hair.
- The natural nail is located at the end of the finger or toe.
- The natural nail is an appendage of the skin and is part of the integumentary
system, which is made up of skin and it's various organs.
- Nail plates protect the tips of the fingers and toes, their appearence can reflect
the general effect of the body.
- A normal healthy nail is firm but flexible. The surface is shiny, smooth and
unspotted with no wavy ridges hollows or splits. A healthy nail also in appearence
should be whitish and translucent in appearence, with the pinkish color of the nail
bed showing through.
- The Water Content of a nail varies accourding to the relative humididty of the
surrounding enviroment; in haumid enviorment, nails contain more water. A
healthy nail may look dry and hard, but it's water content is actually between
15-25 percent.
- The Water Content directly affects the nail's flexibility.
- The lower the water content, the more rigid the nail becomes. Coating the
plate with an oil based nail conditioner or nail polish improves flexibility by
reducing water loss. These products also prevent excessive water absorption.
Nail Anatamy
The nail plate
The nail bed
The nail matrix
The nail cutilclee eponychium
The hyponychium
specialized ligaments
Nail folds
The Nail Plate
bed.
- It is the most visible and functional part of the nail unit.
- The nail plate is relatively porus and will allow water to pass
through it, much more easily than through normal skin of equal thickness.
- As it grows the nail plate slowly slides along the nail bed.
- The nail plate is formed by a Matrix of cells. The sole job of the matrix is to
create nail plate cells.
- The nail plate may appear to be one solid peice but is actually constructed of
about 100 layers of nail cells.
The Free Edge is the part of the nail plate that extends over the tip of the
finger to the toe.
The Nail Bed
plate as it grows towards The Free Edge.
-Because it is richly supplied with blood vessels, the nail bed has a
pinkish appearence from the lunula to the area just before the free
edge of the nail.
-The nail bed contains many nerves, and is attached to the nail
plate by a thin layer of tissue called Bed Epithelium
(bed-ep-eh-thee-lee-um).
-The Bed Epithelium helps support the nail plate along the nail
bed as it grows.
The Nail Matrix
formed; this area is composed up of matrix cells theat produce
the nail plate cells.
-The matrix contains nerves, lymphs, and blood vessels to
nourish the matrix cells. As long as it is nourished and healthy, the
matrix cell willl continue to create new nail plate cells.
-The matrix extends from under the nail fold at the base of the
nail plate.
-The visible part of the matrix extends from the underneath living
skin that is called the lunula(loo-nuh-luh) it is whitish, half moon
shape at the base of the nail.
-The whitish light is caused by the reflection of light of the surface of the matrix
-The whiter surface of the lunula shows the true color of the matrix.
-Every nail has a lunula but, bome lunulas are short and remains hidden under
the eponychium.
- Growth and appearence of the nails can be effected by an individuals state
of health, a person is in poor health if a nail disorder or disease is present,
or if there has been any injury to the matrix.
The Cuticle
natural nail plate.
The cuticle comes from the underside of the skin that lies above the
natural nail plate and living skin.
It's job is to seal The place between the natural nail plate and
living skin. This prevents entry of foreign material and micro
organisms and helps avoid injury and infection.
Eponychium
Eponychium(ep-oh-nik-ee-um) is the living skin at the base of
the natural nail plate that covers the matrix area. The
eponychium is often confused with the nail cuticle. They are
not the same however.
-The cuticle is dead tissue adhered to the nail plate; the
eponychium is living tissue that grows to the nail plate.
- The cuticle comes from the underside of the area , where it
completley detaches from the eponychium and strongly
attaches to the new growth of the nail plate.
- It pulls free to form a seal between the natural nail plate and
the nail eponychium . Cosmetologist are prohibited from
cutting the eponychium, even when a client requests it during
a service.
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| Eponychium from a micoscopic look. |
" Remeber a lot of people will try to get you to do things that
are not standard to your service training! Stay calm and
collected, you are the knowlwdge expert and cannot be pushed
into doing anything you are not trained to do. You are
prohibited to cut into LIVING tissue or skin, because that,
WOULD BE CONSIDERED SURGERY. My advice for the common if someone say tried to tell you : "
'Hey you see the skin on my finger thats pulling back there ? Well you missed that.'
- This has happened to me alot actually, however the first time
it happened it startled me because, most clients do not know
that this is true, because they are the ones who often request it
from places that do this without hesitation. So what happens
is we get questions like this asked, not nesecarily being rude
but to them it seems strange, however their are also times
when a client can get rouwdy as well. You have the right to
calmly and collectively tell her with deepest sincerity in your
voice : "
'Miss I apologize but I nor any cosmetoligist is
permitted to cut your living skin, I can however suggest a hot
oil treatment and wrist massage to improve your circulation, I
can help you with any questions refering to your nails, nail
care, and nail diseases and as to what I am able to preform on
you. '(Refer to a physician if nescessary.)
If your client however already seems to be on the edgy side try
to find an educator to stand by your side while you explain this
to the client, because for some people an explanation as to
why not is something they really don't want to hear.
Hyponychium
-The hyponychium (hy-poh-NIK-EEUM) is the slightly
thickened layer of skin that lies between the fingertip and the
free edge of the natural nail plate.
-It forms a protective barrier that prevents microorganisms
from invading and infecting the nail bed.
Specialized Ligaments
- A Ligament (lig-uh-munt) is a tough band of fiberous tissue
that connects bones or holds an organ in place.
- Specialized ligaments attach to the nail bed and matrix bed to
the underlying bone.
- These ligaments are located at the base of the matrix and
around the wedges of the nail bed.
Nail Folds
-The nail folds are normal skin that surround the nail plate.
-These folds form the Nail Grooves, which are The slits or
furrows on the side wall also known as the lateral nail fold, is
the fold of skin overlapping the side of the nail.
Nail Growth
A persons general health can effect the out growth of a nail. A normal nail growsforward from the matrix and extends over the tips of the fingeres. Normal healthy
nails can grow in a variety of shapes, depending on the size of the matrix. The
length, width, and curvature of the matrix determine the thickness, width, and
curvature of the natural nail plate.
For example a longer matrix produces a thicker nail plate, a highly curved
matrix results in a highly curved free edge.
No product or procedure can make the nailplate grow Thicker because a thicker
nail plate would require a larger matrix. Toenails are also thicker and harder than
fingernails because the toenail matrix is longer than the fingernail matrix.
various nail shapes>
-The Average rate of Nail growth in the normal amount is 1/1o of an
inch(2.5mm) per month
- Many factors affect the growth rate, age being one of them, compared to the
nails of an average adult the nails cells in children reproduce rapidly, in
comparison to that of elderly adults.
- Seasons also affect a nails growth; nails grow faster in the summer than they
do in the winter.
- pregnancy dramatically affects nail growth as it dramatically increases
throught the last trimester of pregnancy and dramatically slows then after
birth allowing hormone levels to return to normal.
- (In spite of popular myth, nail growth increases rapidly whether or not you
take prenatal vitamins)
fastest on that of the nail on the middle finger, and slowest on the thumb,
and toenails grow more slowly than finger nails.
Nail malformation
- If disease injury or infection occurs in the matrix The shape or thickness in the nail plate can change.
- In fact, these condidtions are generally the only reasons that a person will shed a nail . Healthy nails are not shed autonomically like that of healthy hair is shed.
- Often after disease injury or infection that has affected the nail's growth The natural nail will return to it's healthy growth as long as the matrix is healthy and undamaged.
- Ordinarily, replacement of a natural fingernail takes about four to six months. Toenails take about nine months to one year to fully be replaced.
Know your Nails !
" Many cosmetologist love the creative and colorful aspect of nails and the quick money that can be made in learning them. However fully grasping and understanding the basics of all nail functions and diseases nail structure, and physiology will shurely give you a strong and confident knowledge that will reflect in your work. Remember, YOU set the tone for your client if they see some one nervous doing their nails they will be nervous, confident brushstrokes my dear is all it takes."
As a liscensed cosmetologist
you are allowed to work only
on healthy nails and skin, with
no visible or known signs of
disease and infection.
growth pg. 199-203
Nail Glossary
Bed epithelium- Thin Layer of tissue that attaches to the nail plate and the nail bed.
Eponychium- Living skin at the base of the natural nail plate that covers the matrix area
Free edge- Part of the nail plate that extends over the the top of the finger or the toe
Hyponychium-Slightly thickened layer of skin that lies between the fingertip and the free edge of the natural nail plate.
ligament-Tough band of fiberous tissue that connects bones or holds an organ in place.
Lunula- Visible part of the matrix that extends from underneath the living skin; It is the whitish half moon shape at the base of the nail.
Matrix- Area where the nail plate cells are formed; this area is composed up of matrix cells that produce the nail plate.
Nail bed- Portion of the living skin that supports the nail plate as it grows outward.
Nail cuticle- Dead, colorless tissue that attaches to the natural nail plate.
Nail folds- Folds of normal skin that surround the natural nail plate
Nail grooves-Sits or furrows at the sides of the nail wall
Nail plate-Hardened keratin plate that sitson and covers the natural nail bed. It is the most visible and functional part of the natural nail unit.
Natural Nail- Also known as the onyx; or the hard protective keratin ,the same fiberous protein found in hair and skin. The keratin in natural nails is harder than the keratin in skin or hair.
A brief review of skin structure, growth, and nutrition
Dermatology- The medical branch of science that deals with the study of skin- it's nature, structure, functions, diseases, and treatment.
Do you have healthy skin?
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| Top 10 Foods for Clear Skin - Bite Size Wellness bitesizewellness.com |
Healthy skin can breifly be described as being free of visible signs of
disease, infection, or injury. slightly moist, soft and flexible. Healthy skin
has a smooth, fine grained texture. The surface is slightly acidic.
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The two main divisions of the skin are the Dermis, and the Epidermis.
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ARTISTRY Skincare Structurewww.artistry.com |
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www.daviddarling.info |
Your Stratum corneum is the outter layer of the epidermis
Your stratum Granulosum is the layer of the epidermis that is composed up
of cells that look like granules and are filled with keratin.
Your stratum Germinativum is the deepest layer of the epidermis. It's a live
layer that produces new epidermal skin cells and is responsible for the
growth of the epidermis.
The dermis is constructed of two layers.........
The papillary or (outer-layer of the dermis) and the recticular-layer(the
deeper layer of the dermis. Supplies skin with all of it's oxygen and
nutrients.)
| www.dermgunner.com |
Nerve Fibers...
There are several types of nerve fibers that surround the skin that you
should know about when working with clients; These types of nerve fibers
consist of :
The Motor nerve fibers
The Sensory nerve fibers
Secretory nerve fibers
| google.com |
Have you ever heard the expression you are what you eat ?
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| The Clear Skin Diet www.beautythroughstrength.com |
Much truth can be made about this statment when in the topic of your skin.
Because the skin cannot be nourishesd with cosmetic products this is a
common myth, The nourishement must come from the food that we eat and
put into our bodies. As our hair, nails, and skin, gennerally result in a
mirror image of one's own personal health.
The age factor...
The skin and face is filled with what is called collagen and elastin, which
over time can dramaticcly affect a persons appearance as they age. Some
main factors for the cause of of the collagen weakening is due to Gravity,
age, lack of moisture, or frequent changes in weight.Also try to avoid long
tim exposure to uv rays that can be incredibly damaging to skin in
numerous ways.
| google.com |
The Sudoriferous and sebaceous glands.....
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| google.com |
Your sudoriferious gland is the gland responsible for excreating
persperation and detoxifying the body by excreating excess salt and
unwanted chemicals. Your sebacious glands secrete sebaum, a fatty oil
substance that lubricates the skin and preserves the softness of the hair.
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| http://faculty.irsc.edu/faculty/jschwartz/Saladin.Chapt.6.htm |
Your skin is important ....
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| www.goldenrule.com |
Without skin the human body wouldn't have much chance to survive, not
only is it the larest organ composed of the human body, but it also grants us
protection from the harsh enviorment around us, it gives us sensation, it
regulates our heat to keep our bodies warm. It also is responsible for
excretion, secretion, and absorption.
The fuss about nutrients...
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| www.eufic.org |
Many people feel the need to constantly add new sources of nutrients as part
of their daily intake, however there are only 6 main nutrients that your body
should be receiving because they matter the most.
Carbs
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| google.com |
vitamins
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| google.com |
Fats
| google.com |
minerals
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| A great website where this image is from @www.godshealthlaw.com |
protein/ water, which can be obtained from eating and drinking.
| google.com |
Of course in order to get a basic understanding of what nutrients to put into
your body you must also have a basic undertanding of the five basic food
groups which include,
Grains
Vegetables
Fruits
Milk
Poultry
Fish/Beans
4 vitamins that can help the skin.....
Vitamin a- Supports overall health of the skin
Vitamin c- Repair of the skin tissue
Vitamin d- Enables the body to properly absorb calcium
Vitamin e - Protects the skin from uv rays
And of course theres always that one thing that we just all couldn't live
without... water ! The chemical component of h20,which acts as a natural
binding fluid keeping all of our organs in place.
Safe drinking water is essential to humans and other lifeforms even though it provides no calories or organic nutrients. Access to safe drinking water has improved over the last decades in almost every part of the world, but approximately one billion people still lack access to safe water and over 2.5 billion lack access to adequate sanitation
-Wikipedia
* Here's an additional handy vitamin chart i found on google it's a great resource from :http://www.brokeandhealthy.com/your-handy-a-k-guide-to-the-13-vitamins
(c) Cristina Lazalde
{works cited}1.Miladys standard text book (pg. 156-153)2.wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water{images}(not in order)1.www.doctorreed.com2.www.bitesizewellness.com 3. www.beautythroughstrength.com.
4.www.medterms.5.www.artistry.com 6.skin
www.daviddarling.info
7.www.dermgunner.com
8.www.google.com
Chapter 14. The study of nails
a. Nail theoryb. Natural nail care
c. Artificial nail care
Chapter 15. The study of skin
a. Skin Theory
b. Skin care
c. Hair removal
d. Makeup
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